At a certain time of day in the boisterous, overflowing centre of Istanbul – the after dinner before sunset golden time – the skinny, steep streets are packed with kids. Football, skipping ropes, bicycle races, blowing bubbles, intimate made up games. Dancing and running and leaping across the sun washed pavements. Giggling with best friends. Hamming it up for the camera. Burning scraps of newspaper, flames held aloft. Faces upturned towards the mothers in head scarves propped up on all the window sills. Pleading for a few lira to buy an ice-cream.